A special weekend

Travel and work keep me away from this blog from time to time. Sometimes, however, it does just the opposite. So, last time I had the chance to visit the kitchen when this chat happens. On the picture, the couple responsible for everything. Food is divine, but even for a fork addict like me, company surpass the meal by far.

'Loose' rice and first class carreteiro

My mother always made a killing carreteiro. Carreteiro's rice, or just carreteiro, is an appreciated dish in Rio Grande do Sul, where I live. While in the italian risotto we try to let the rice release starch in order to end up with a cream, in the carreteiro the idea is to get a loose rice. That is the way I like it, and that is the way I learned it from my mother.

The original carreteiro is peasant food. Made of rice and salted meat, it was easy to prepare in a era without refrigeration. By the way, carreteiro means carriage's driver, someone that wanders on horse power with very few resources. Today we call carreteiro rice with all kinds of meat cuts and even with leftovers of a good churrasco, or barbecue. My favorite.

I start with chopped onions on hot olive oil, salt, and pepper. Then comes the meat, the rice and enough water. Sometimes, tomatoes or even (what a heresy!) catchup. Sorry for that, Clarissa! Next comes the secret: after the rice, after have added the water, leave it alone! Don't touch anything. Get everyone out of the kitchen, do not speak loud! The rice should cook on low heat with the pan semi-closed. You should watch it carefully, adding water when necessary, but never, never, stirs.

Well, then came a wife and a doughter that like their rice glued like a puree. The technique, passed from one generation to the next, is lost. A tradition is dead.

Risotto on stand by

I became a big fan of risotto after learning how to
make it with italian rice. I learned the recipe from
José Hugo Celidônio's book, Histórias e Receitas
(Stories and Recipes). Clarissa has already
written about the risotto's technique, so I am not
repeating it here. What I want to mention
is the tip he gives on how to stop the cooking,
just before the rice is ready.

When the rice is almost cooked, you add one more
cup of chicken broth and turn off the heat. You
may ask "How do I know when the rice is almost done?".
Well, you have to learn it by yourself, doing one
after another (I always taste it). The rice will
cook a bit more and absorb the liquid while it
seats waiting for your next move.

You should try shrimps! One pound of scrimps,
a hot pan with a little bit of olive oil, salt,
pepper... After frying the shrimps, lightly,
throw it into the rice under low heat.

Mussels and squid are great too. I have just
tried smoked salmon and it was delicious.
Don't forget to add one more spoon of butter
with the salmon.

Fettucini with smoked salmon

One of these days, running through the supermarket, late,
having to fix dinner for the girls, I decided that my best
option would be a quick pasta. The idea was to prepare
fettucini with cream cheese and mushrooms. For a change,
and to avoid hearing that "again!" from my daughter, I
also bought 100 g of smoked salmon. Well, it did not
taste that bad...

Here we go:

100 g of smoked salmon, sliced
fresh mushrooms (+/- 500 g)
a cup of cream cheese
a handful of green onions
1/4 glass of a good white wine
olive oil
black pepper
a pinch of salt
Barilla's fettucini

Slice the onion and throw it into a hot pan with olive oil.
Immediately, add the mushrooms cut in thin slices. Steer a little,
add the wine, the salt, the pepper, ant let it cook for a while.
The mushrooms loose water quickly and reduce to half their size
in a few minutes. When the mixture had lost half of its water,
turn down the heat and add the cheese. Turn off the heat and
add the salmon.

The pasta should be ready, of course, cooked in salt water
and drained. Al dente.
Just pour the sauce over the pasta. I had it with a delicious
chadornnay.

Recipe: Cherry Cheesecake

This is for my dear friends at the Privy Parlor!!! ;)

It's a recipe from the book Nigella Express, by Nigella Lawson. It's really interesting, because is not baked, it's really easy to make, looks damn good and tastes even better! Nigella suggests as topping a French cherry preserve, to make it even easier. Here's her note, on the book:

"Please do not be tempted to open a jar of cherry pie filling over the cake. I use some French cherry concoction that seems to be pretty universally available and has no added sugar, but anything labelled "conserve" as opposed to "jam" should be safe.

And, if you feel like it, when cherries are in season, strew the top with a couple of handfuls of beautiful fruit."

Cherry Cheesecake

Ingredients:
(Serves 6-8)

125g (4,5 oz) digestive biscuits
1/2 teaspoon lemon juice
75g (2,5 oz) soft butter
250ml (8,5 oz) double cream
300g (10 oz) cream cheese
1 x 284g (10 oz) jar St Dalfour Rhapsodie de Fruit Black Cherry Spread
60g (2 oz) icing sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract



Preparation:

Blitz the biscuits in a food processor until beginning to turn to crumbs, then add the butter and whiz again to make the mixture clump.

Press this mixture into a 20cm springform tin; press a little up the sides to form a slight ridge.

Beat together the cream cheese, icing sugar, vanilla extract and lemon juice in a bowl until smooth.

Lightly whip the double cream, and then fold it into the cream cheese mixture.

Spoon the cheesecake filling on top of the biscuit base and smooth with a spatula. Put it in the fridge for 3 hours or overnight.

When you are ready to serve the cheesecake, unmould it and spread the black cherry over the top.

It's pizza time!

You can make pizza at home: it's easier than you think, it's healthier (because hou have the control over the ingredients, you know what you are eating) and it's really fun! I do that every saturday night, sometimes we have guests, people can be in the kitchen with you drinking wine and choosing the toppings. It's really a good time.

This is my dough recipe, it's really simple - I just need to remember to begin with 4 hours in advance to let it rise enough.

Pizza Dough Recipe

(yields 3 medium pizzas)

1 pound all-purpose flour
35 ounces of dry yeast
1 to 1 1/2 cup tap water
1 1/2 tbs sugar
1 tsp salt
2 tbs oil

In a food processor, put all the dry ingredients. Turn on the machine to medium speed and keep it running while you add the water and oil mixed together, in a thin stream, until the dough forms a ball inside the running machine. You probably will need to add a little more water. Turn of the food processor, transfer the dough to a greased bowl, cover with a damped towel and let it in a warm place to rise (I use a turned-off pre-heated oven at 300º) for about 1 hour. After that time, knead the dough a bit, inside the bowl, without any additional flour, just to mix well the fermentation spots. You should have a smooth dough at this point. Cover with the towel and let it rise again for 2 to 3 hours (if you have the time). Divide the dough in 3 balls, without kneading. Pour a little flour on a rolling-board, spread each ball in a circle, transfer it to a pizza sheet or pan. You should bake a bit each pizza before put the topping, about 10-15 min. at 400º. Garnish the pre-baked pizza and put in the oven until golden - this time use the oven broiler!

Toppings!

Tip: I like to spread a little catchup over the pizza, 1 tbs, before putting the topping...

Napolitana Pizza: tomato fillets, minced garlic, origano, fresh basil, salt and a little oil.

Roman Pizza: tomato fillets, anchovy fillets, cubes of mozzarella, minced basil, grated Parmesan cheese, salt and pepper.

Margherita Pizza: tomato fillets, finely sliced mozzarella, minced basil, salt and olive oil.

Mushrooms Pizza: small slices of mushroom (previously browned in oil and garlic), parsley and mozzarella.

5-cheeses Pizza: grated parmesan, pecorino, provolone, gruyère and muzzarella cheeses.

Clarissa's Home Pizza: tomato slices, cubes of gorgonzola cheese, sliced muzzarella, sliced onions, origano.

Tuna Pizza: grated canned tuna, muzzarella slices, onion slices, black olives, origano

Enjoy and HAVE FUN!!!

Recipe: Bruschetta with tuna, tomatoes and onions

Ingredients:

1 tuna can, drained
2 medium tomatoes, without seeds, diced
1/2 red onion, sliced
2 tbs olive oil
basil to taste
salt and pepper to taste
6 slices Italian bread, about 3/4-inch thick
2 garlic cloves, peeled


Preparation:

In a medium bowl, toss the tomatoes, tuna, onions, oil, basil, salt and pepper until well mixed and let sit at room temperature for at least 20 minutes to let the flavors mingle. You can store the mixture in the refrigerator for up to 3 hours, but after that, the tomatoes will become too soft.

Toast the bread slices under a broiler until the edges are brown on both sides, but still white in the middle. Remove from the oven and when cool enough to handle, rub both sides of the bread with the whole garlic cloves until the cloves are too small to hold with your fingers.

Lay the bread slices on a serving plate and top with the tomato/tuna mixture. Serve immediately.

Recipe: Salmon in Potato Case

Jacques Pepin is the best! His technique is amazing, his recipes priceless. This one is from the great book "Julia and Jacques Cooking at Home", where each recipe is presented like a contest between Jacques and Julia Child, so having two versions.

I love this recipe because it's SO SIMPLE to do, always impresses the guests (aw, that's important) and it tastes great! The potato "case" around the salmon protect the fish for drying or burn out, so the fillet cames perfect every time. Don't be afraid: this recipe is really easy and quick. No need to prepare anything in advance.

Salmon in Potato Case

(serves 2)

2 2-inch-wide salmon fillets (about 5 onces each)
salt and pepper to taste
1 or 2 large potatoes
chopped dill
2 tbs butter
2 tbs oil
For the tomato coulis:
1/2 cup of chopped onion
2 garlic clove, crushed or sliced
2 tomatoes, diced
salt and pepper to taste
1 tbs olive oil


Preparation:

Make the coulis first. In a large skillet, sauté the onions and garlic in olive oil. Add the tomatoes, season with salt and pepper and let cook for 10 minutes. Let stand, covered, until the salmon is done.

Peel the potato and, using a mandoline or a vegetable peeler cut very thing lenghwise slices. Lay about 5 or 6 pieces, slightly overlapping, on your work surface and set the salmon on top: you should use just enough potato slices to make a bottom covering for the fish. Heat the butter and oil in a non-stick frying pan and, when it is sizzling, pick up the potato-lined pieces of salmon and slip them into the pan. Sprinkle the dill on top and cover each piece of fish with 5 or 6 more potato slices.

If you have a long spatula, you can arrange directly on the spatula the bottom layer of potato slices, the salmon and dill, and the top layer of potatoes, and then slide everything neatly into the pan.

Cook over moderate heat for 4 to 5 minutes, then check to see if the bottom has browned. When well crusted, turn the fish over carefully and cook the other side about 4 to 5 minutes, or until the potatoes are browned.

Spoon several tablespoons of the coulis onto a serving plate; then, with the back of the spoon, clear a place to put the salmon fillets. Serve it at once!

Recipe: Brazilian "California" Salad

I'm in love with this salad! My mom gave me the recipe and she told me that it is from California. I'm really not sure of that, so I call it Brazilian "California" Salad. (We don't eat here cabbage with sweet and sour sauce, so it is kind of "exotic" for us. Maybe that's why the "California" name"...) It's good for parties, because one recipe serves 8 to 10 people, is very easy to do and stays well in the fridge for up to 4 days if you have leftovers...

Brazilian "California" Salad

Ingredients

1 medium cabbage head, sliced thin
1 cup (or lots!) of parsley and green onions, chopped
1/2 cup sesame seeds
1 cup ground pecans
about 6 oz (2 packages) of instant noodle (ramen), without the flavor sachet, uncooked and crushed

For the sauce:
1/2 cup olive oil
1/2 cup canola oil
1/3 cup sugar
1/3 cup rice vinegar
2 tsp salt

Preparation:

In a big bowl, mix together the cabbage, parsley and green onions, sesame seeds and pecans. Mix all the sauce ingredients. Pour over the salad, stirring well to combine the sauce with the dry ingredients. Then add the crushed noodles. (Don't use the flavor sachet!!) If you like the salad very crispy, serve at once. Or let stay some time in the refrigerator to blend the flavors.

Recipe: Shiitake Strudel

Ingredients:

For the dough:

4 tbs margarine (not butter for THIS recipe)
1 cup all-purpose flour
1/2 cup cold milk
1/2 tsp baking soda
pinch of salt

For the filling:

1/2 pound shiitake mushrooms, sliced (could be made with shimeji, too!)
1 clove garlic, minced
olive oil
juice of 1/2 lemon
1/2 cup chopped parsley and green onions
3 tbs cottage cheese
3/4 cup homemade bred crumbs
black pepper, lots of it

The dough:

Put flour, margarine, salt and baking soda in a food processor. Turn on and add, little by little, the milk until a ball forms. Stop the processor, wrap the dough ball in plastic film and keep refrigerated until using.

The filling:

In a large skillet, heat the oil and stir-fry the mushrooms. Add garlic, stirring a little. Turn off the heat and add parsley and green onions, salt, lemon juice and black pepper. Transfer to a bowl, mix the cottage cheese and bread crumbs.

Assembling:

Open the dough with a roll, cut in 2 pieces, one for the botton of the pan, other for topping. Put the first piece in the pan (no need to grease it) put the filling and top with the piece of dough left. Close the borders, no need to pinch holes or brush with eggwash. Just put in the oven, 400 F for 25 minutes or until gold.

Recipe: Brazilian Black Bean Soup

I think this is the most delicious and exotic soup that I ever tasted! It reminds me of "feijoada", a typical brazilian dish of black beans with pork, served with rice and a side dish of orange cubes.

This is a vegetarian recipe, of Moosewood Cookbook, by Mollie Katzen.

Brazilian Black Bean Soup

Preliminary: soak 2 cups dry black beans in plenty of water for at last 4 hours (and preferably overnight)

2 cups dry black beans, soaked
6 cups water
1 tbs. olive oil
3 cups chopped onion
10 medium cloves garlic, crushed
2 tsp. cumin
2 to 2 1/2 tsp. salt
1 medium carrot, diced
1 medium bell pepper, diced
1 1/2 cups orange juice
black pepper, to taste
cayenne, to taste
2 medium tomatoes, diced
parsley to serve.

1) Place the soaked beans in a kettle or Dutch oven with 4 cups water. Bring to a boil, cover, and simmer until tender (about 1 1/4 hours).

2) Heat olive oil in a medium-sized skillet. Add onion, half the garlic, cumin, salt, and carrot. Sauté over medium heat until the carrot is just tender. Add remaining garlic and the bell pepper. Sauté until everything is very tender (another 10 to 15 minutes). Add the sautéed mixture to the beans, scraping in every last morsel.

3) Stir in orange juice, black pepper, cayenne, and tomatoes. Purée some of the soup in a blender or food processor, and return to kettle. Simmer over very low heat 10 to 15 minutes more. Serve topped with parsley.

Recipe: Croque with Yellowfin Tuna and Wasabi Mayonnaise

Since we are chatting about food, the recipe Gom posted this week reminded me of another one, also surprisingly delicious. (This recipe is from the wonderful "Cooking with David Burke" cookbook. The picture is mine.)


Croque with Yellowfin Tuna and Wasabi Mayonnaise

"Croque" comes from the famous Croque Monsieur, a cheese-and-ham sandwich sautéed in butter until crisp. This recipe is a variation of that, with a unexpected and unique filling: yellowfin tuna and wasabi-made mayonnaise!

You can cut the croques into quarters and serve them as h'orderves.

Ingredients:

Yield: 4 servings

2 tablespoons water
2 tablespoons wasabi powder
1 egg yolk
1/2 cup Ginger Oil
8 slices white bread
1/2 pound yellowfin tuna, cut into 4 slices, approximately the same size as bread slices
Coarse or kosher salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
Ginger Oil for sautéing

Ginger Oil:
1/2 cup of fresh ginger
1 1/2 cups grapeseed oil or olive oil
Coarse or kosher salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Preparation:

Ginger Oil:

Combine ingredients in a saucepan and simmer over low heat for 5 minutes.
Allow oil to cool before using in the mayonnaise.

Croque:

Combine water and wasabi powder in a bowl and mix. Add egg yolk and whisk. Slowly add Ginger Oil, whisking together until mixture thickens into a mayonnaise.

Spread Wasabi Mayonnaise on 8 slices of bread.

Place a slice of tuna each on 4 of the bread slies. Season to taste. Cover with remaining bread slices.

Heat Ginger Oil in a sauté pan, preferably with a nonstick surface. Sauté sandwiches over low heat, turning so that bread is a golden brown. Do not overcook. Tuna should be rare or, at most, medium-rare.

Remove sandwiches from pan, using a slotted spatula, and drain on paper towels. Salt to taste. Cut sandwiches into quarters.

Talking in english

The three preceding texts are translations of my contributions to the portuguese version of this blog. I hope everyone else will try to reach a wider audience too.

Greetings

Mozzarella in Carrozza

If gastronomy is more than taste and smell, also an art to enchant the eyes, nothing more natural than make a special place for Nigella Lawson, the prettiest thing that came into cuisine in decades. For my latest experience in the kitchen was trying a recipe I saw on Nigella Bites, one of her books. Few things can be so simple and, at the same time, so challenging. At least to me. How to avoid to end up with some sort of sponge that has spent the whole night in a pool of oil?

Hard to be easier: slices of white bread, mozzarella, one or two eggs lightly beaten with salt and pepper, milk and flower. Make sandwiches with the bread and the mozzarella, keeping the later in the middle of the slices. Sink the sandwiches into the milk quickly, pressing the borders. A quick dive in the flower, than in the eggs, and we're ready to fry it in a hot pan with a little bit oil. When that beautiful golden crust shows up you are done. Dry the sandwiches with paper towels before serving. You've got a nice carrozza when the mozzarella is trying to make its way out of the sandwich.

Where is the rocket science, you may ask? Well, making the carrozzas as dry as possible. There are three main factors in action, I believe: 1) The milk. It's the old rivalry, water and oil do not mix together. Where you got one, the other is out. 2) The crust. At least in theory, it is supposed to shield the sandwich from the dangerous invader. 3) Oil temperature. In this case, however, it is not so determinant One is not supposed to deep fry the sandwiches, just enough oil to cover the bottom of the pan will suffice. Besides, if the oil is too hot, one would get a formidable splash. Is the housekeeper coming tomorrow?

My carrozzas end up light, in spite of my fears. I used canola oil, not olive oil as Nigella had suggested. The brand I used, Purilev, looks like the fourth state of water, almost insipid.

It's easy to try some variations. Maybe some parma ham, mix some other cheese... a slice of tomato? A chilean chadornaay was the companion. Why? For those who may wander if I am some sort of Renato Machado, let I make it clear that in the heat of Porto Alegre summer you can only drink something really cool. Ideal beverage? A beer close to the freezing point.

Greetings

Still salted lemons

Our chef asked me if the sicilian lemons are the yellow ones. Yes they are. Bigger then the green Tahiti lemons.
For those who want the recipe for shitake carpaccio I recommend the master himself:

http://www.claudetroisgros.com.br/receitas.htm

(portuguese only)

Carpaccio shitake with a new ingredient

Hello everyone!

Chef, me? No way! A barbecue specialist, at most! Clarissa is just too kind. She deserves the title, not me.

Justice made, I've decided to post my first text to talk about an ingredient I found quite interesting, very unusual. It was presented by Claude Troisgros on Menu Confiança, the TV show on GNT channel. Everybody in Brazil must know it: a renowned chef presents sophisticated recipes while the audience should pay a price listening to a boring journalist that knows wines, Renato Machado. So, the unusual ingredient in that shitake carpaccio is salted lemon. We are talking here about those big yellow lemons that we call sicilian lemons in Brazil. The lemons are cut in four meridians and mixed with lots of salt in a bowl. Then they are put to rest in a sealed jar for at least one month. The ones he's got on the show were three months old. With a sharp knife he cleaned the shell, removing all the very salty pulp, and then washed it carefully. The shells, cut in thin slices were used to spice the dish.

I still can figure the taste of this salted lemon. According to Claude, the smell is fantastic. In order to find it out I'll have to wait a month, at least.

Greetings,
Gom.